Chemical exfoliation is one of the highest-impact categories in evidence-based skincare — but also one of the most frequently misused in Indian skin, where the combination of high melanocyte activity and aggressive exfoliation creates consistent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Understanding which exfoliant does what, and how to use each appropriately, is essential before adding any acid to your routine.

AHAs — Alpha Hydroxy Acids

AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and malic acid. They are water-soluble and work primarily on the surface of the skin, dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells to accelerate shedding. Glycolic acid — the smallest molecule — penetrates most deeply and is most potent; it is also most likely to cause irritation in Indian skin. Lactic acid is gentler, adds some humectant hydration alongside exfoliation, and is better tolerated by sensitive skin. Mandelic acid has the largest molecular size among AHAs, penetrates most slowly, and is our preferred AHA for Indian skin — it provides effective exfoliation with the lowest irritation and PIH risk.

AHAs are best for: dull skin, surface pigmentation, rough texture, fine lines, and dry or normal skin types.

BHAs — Beta Hydroxy Acids

Salicylic acid is the primary BHA used in skincare. It is oil-soluble — a critical difference from AHAs — which means it can penetrate into the sebum-filled pore and exfoliate from within. This makes it uniquely effective for congested, oily, acne-prone skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it useful for active breakouts as well as prevention. For Indian skin that is oily and prone to congestion, salicylic acid is typically the most appropriate exfoliant.

PHAs — Polyhydroxy Acids

PHAs — including gluconolactone and lactobionic acid — are the gentlest of the three categories. Their larger molecular size means slower, more superficial penetration. They provide mild exfoliation with significant humectant and antioxidant benefits, making them the best option for sensitive, reactive, or rosacea-prone skin that cannot tolerate AHAs or BHAs. They are also appropriate for post-procedure skin (after peels or lasers) when gentle maintenance exfoliation is needed without risking irritation.

How to Use Exfoliants Safely on Indian Skin

Start with the lowest effective concentration, used 1-2 times weekly. Always apply SPF the following morning — exfoliation increases photosensitivity and the risk of PIH from UV exposure. Never combine multiple exfoliants in the same routine. And introduce only one new active at a time. The most common mistake we see: patients using multiple AHAs, a BHA, and a retinoid simultaneously — a combination that guarantees barrier disruption and, in Indian skin, frequently triggers the PIH they were trying to treat.

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— Dr. Nishita Ranka | Consultant Dermatologist | Dr. Nishita’s Clinic for Skin, Hair & Aesthetics, Hyderabad