Double cleansing — the practice of using two different cleansers sequentially in the evening routine — originated in Korean skincare and has become mainstream globally. Like most skincare trends with a clinical basis, it has been simultaneously over-applied (recommended for everyone regardless of skin type or routine) and underapplied (dismissed as unnecessary complexity). The clinical case for it is specific and practical.

Why Double Cleansing Exists

Water-based cleansers — the standard face wash — are not designed to fully remove oil-based products. Sunscreen (particularly high-SPF mineral sunscreen), waterproof makeup, and sebum-heavy skin all leave an oil-based residue that a water-based cleanser emulsifies incompletely. The residue that remains after a single water-based cleanse contributes to pore congestion, product interference (actives applied over poorly cleansed skin penetrate inconsistently), and the gradual buildup that many patients notice as persistent dullness and congestion despite regular cleansing.

Who Genuinely Benefits

Patients who wear sunscreen daily (everyone should) — particularly high-SPF mineral sunscreen. Patients who wear makeup. Patients with oily skin prone to congestion. Patients using multiple skin products whose efficacy depends on proper penetration. For these patients, a first cleanse with a cleansing oil or balm to dissolve oil-based deposits, followed by a water-based cleanser to remove the emulsified oil and remaining debris, produces a meaningfully cleaner starting point for the evening routine.

Who Does Not Need It

Patients with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin barriers should be cautious — the double-cleansing step adds a second round of surfactant exposure that may worsen dryness and barrier disruption. For these patients, a single gentle oil cleanser or micellar water that removes sunscreen adequately without requiring a second foam cleanser is often sufficient. The goal is thorough removal of the day’s products without over-stripping — the number of steps is secondary to achieving that outcome.

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— Dr. Nishita Ranka | Consultant Dermatologist | Dr. Nishita’s Clinic for Skin, Hair & Aesthetics, Hyderabad