The toner step is one of the most debated in skincare — loved by some dermatologists, considered unnecessary by others, and surrounded by persistent myths about what it does to pores and pH. Here is a clinical perspective on when toners are useful and when they are a step you can skip without consequence.

The History and the Myth

Traditional toners were designed to remove residual soap residue from an era when soap-based cleansers left an alkaline film on the skin. Modern cleansers are formulated differently — residue is not a meaningful issue. The idea that toners “restore pH” after cleansing is largely irrelevant if you are using a well-formulated cleanser that does not significantly disrupt pH to begin with. Alcohol-based astringent toners — once the norm — are genuinely harmful: they strip sebum, disrupt the barrier, and should not be used on the face.

When Toners Are Useful

Modern toners have evolved into functional products that can serve real purposes. Hydrating toners containing hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or panthenol add a layer of humectant moisture before subsequent products and are a genuinely useful step for dry or dehydrated skin. Exfoliating toners containing AHAs (glycolic, lactic) or BHAs (salicylic acid) deliver chemical exfoliation in a leave-on format and are appropriate for oily, congested, or textured skin — used 2-3 times weekly rather than daily. Niacinamide toners provide sebum regulation and barrier support. These are functional actives in a toner format — whether they are worth adding depends on what your skin needs and whether you are not already addressing those concerns elsewhere in your routine.

The Verdict for Indian Skin

Most Indian skin types benefit from simplicity over layering. If your routine already includes a good cleanser, an active serum, a moisturiser, and sunscreen — a toner is an optional addition, not a necessity. The exception: oily, congested Indian skin types in a humid climate often benefit meaningfully from a salicylic acid toner 2-3 times weekly as a targeted pore-clearing step. For dry or sensitive skin, a hydrating toner can add useful moisture before heavier products. For everyone else — it is a step you can take or leave based on your skin’s needs.

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— Dr. Nishita Ranka | Consultant Dermatologist | Dr. Nishita’s Clinic for Skin, Hair & Aesthetics, Hyderabad